Traditionally, BMW performed a break-in service at 1,200 miles on new cars, which included changing the engine oil and filter, manual gearbox oil or automatic transmission fluid, and differential oil. With the advent of Free Scheduled Maintenance, BMW stopped performing break-in services except on M cars.And I write a article about How To Replace Engine Oil And Oil Filter For BMW X5 before,here I start another post about BMW 5 Series F10 Oil Change Guide,and I will put video guide at end of article for more detail.
What you need to do engine oil change?
1.Fully Synthetic Oil 7 Quarts BMW High Performance Full Synthetic 5W30* (BMW P/N: 07 51 0 017 866), Mobil 1 0W40, or Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W30.
2.Oil Filter (BMW P/N: 11 42 7 566 327) – Comes with 2 o-ring washers (1 big black, 1 small green), and 1 copper crush washer.
3.Oil Filter Wrench, there are several on the market. I used my hand but this might be too hard for you paper pushers.
4.Floor Jack (I used 2) with jack stands
5.Oil Drain Pan.
6.17 mm socket (1/2″ drive wrench).
8.Rags / paper towels.
9.Disposable rubber gloves.
11Needle nose pliers.
Procedures of BMW 5 series F10 engine oil change:
Make sure oil is at operating temp before doing this.
1.On a level surface, engage parking brake and chock rear wheels
2.Lift front of car, I used two floor jacks with plastic pads to keep from damaging plastic jack points on the F10.
3.Use jacks stands in case floor jacks malfunction (this is VERY IMPORTANT) Never get under a car without proper safety backup.
4.Remove small bolt that holds trap door in place, remove trap door.
5.Using 17mm socket and wrench loosen drain plug. (Bolt faces down, so no mess with angle draining)
6.Lower car back down to ensure even oil draining. This will take a while, I made a sandwich during the time.
7.Remove oil filter, I did it by hand but if your kung fu grip isn’t strong enough buy the filter wrench. With needle nose pliers remove green gasket and large black gasket on oil filter housing. Pull oil filter out. Install new filter, the writing was facing out or down. Put new gaskets on the filter housing. I soaked the new filter in a little oil and rubbed some oil on the new gaskets. I sucked out all the residual oil in the filter seat with a turkey baster. Screw filter back into the base. Match the green alignment marks (thanks for that Dingolfing!)
8.Jack Car back up, place jacks stands in position again, make sure the rear chocks haven’t moved around. Put copper crush washer onto new bolt, put a little oil on the threads of the bolt, and tighten bolt back by hand at first then use the 17mm socket and torque the bolt back to 25-30lbs/ft, don’t over tighten.
9.Put trap door back in place (or leave open to check for leaks later, I skipped this as I am confident in my DIY skills, if you’re not, triple check everything).
10.Place car back on level ground, and fill with 7 qts of oil. I list the 3 grades and brands above because they are the most common in N. America and can be found easily, don’t send me PM’s about how great Amsoil or Redline is, most people don’t want to deal with the hassle of getting that stuff.
11.Drive car around until oil level appears on IDrive (this took forever, and pissed me off. My kingdom for a dipstick!!!)
12.Bask in your glory by consuming beer or adult beverage of choice.
Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W30
chock rear wheels
I used two floor jacks with plastic pads to keep from damaging plastic jack points on the F103.
Use jacks stands in case floor jacks malfunction (this is VERY IMPORTANT) Never get under a car without proper safety backup.
Remove small bolt that holds trap door in place, remove trap door.
Using 17mm socket and wrench loosen drain plug. (Bolt faces down, so no mess with angle draining)
I sucked out all the residual oil in the filter seat with a turkey baster.
Match the green alignment marks (thanks for that Dingolfing!)